Sanliv Single Lever Modern Spiral Chrome Pull-out Kitchen Faucet main features:

• Add a modern touch to your kitchen with this functional and stylish Kraus spiral pull-out faucet
• Kitchen accessory features spring and dual spray head for either aerated flow or a powerful spray
• Kraus kitchen faucet blends quality and durability with elegance and style
• Made from solid brass with stunning triple plated chrome finish
• 360-degree swivel spout
• Contains drip-free ceramic cartridge
• Hermetically sealed with adjustable temperature and flow rate limitation
• Single lever water and temperature control
• Single-hole, top-mount installation
• Water pressure tested for industry standard
• Standard US plumbing connections
• 2.2 GPM flow rate
• Installation in a 1 3/8-inch hole
• All mounting hardware and hot/cold waterlines are included
• Spout measures 20 inches high x 9.5 inches deep
• Faucet measures 18 inches high x 9.5 inches reach
• Pull-out sprayer hose measures 36 inches long

Faucet buying tips
Two important items in thinking about new faucets are construction and configuration. All follow the same basic design–they are one pipe connected to another via a hole through which water flows. Turn the faucet handle to close the hole and stop the flow. In configuration, variety is almost limitless; a simple stainless steel kitchen faucet might have an oil rubbed bronze faucet in the bathroom next door. Most people look for practicality in kitchen faucets, but they want to have fun with their bathroom faucets. Ask yourself: What look or style do I really want for my bathroom or kitchen?

Faucet construction
Modern faucets are usually made of brass, an alloy that’s durable and rust resistant. New materials, like the ceramic disks which have replaced rubber washers, mean new faucets are less likely to spring a leak. On the outside, there is something for every taste, with finishes to match any bathroom or kitchen decor. These finishes include chrome, brushed nickel, polished brass (gold-tone), oil rubbed bronze, antique copper and antique bronze. Some of these new surfaces are extremely durable, requiring little maintenance.

Faucet configuration
When it comes to the design, there are only two rules: Match the fixture to the rest of the d?cor. Like what you buy, because you’re going to live with it every day for a long time.

Center set faucets have the valve and spout in one unit. Dual handle faucets have one for hot water and one for cold; water temperature depends on how far you turn each valve. Single lever faucets have one lever or knob; water temperature depends on how far to the right or left that lever or knob is turned or pulled.

Widespread faucets feature separate mountings for a hot water valve, a cold water valve and the stem. These were very common in older homes, and many people are buying modern reproductions as part of renovation projects.

Waterfall faucets (also called a vessel faucet) feature a wide stem that creates a waterfall effect to the flow. Many of these have a modern, pop-art look and use uncommon materials, such as glass or ceramics to achieve a unique appearance. A waterfall faucet would be an excellent choice for the post-modern home that’s filled with the latest and greatest hi-tech toys.

Wall-mount faucets are similar to a shower head; the levers and stem are attached to the wall, instead of the sink. Could be the perfect choice for a very small sink in a powder room, or just to surprise your guests with something they might never have seen before.

Other features to consider

What type of sinks do you have? You won’t want to use a single handle center set faucet if your sink has three holes for a widespread faucet. What do you like? Do you prefer a modern or traditional look? Sleek or sassy? What are the accessories and colors in your bathroom or kitchen? Whatever you have chosen, or are planning to choose, there is a faucet and a finish that will fit in beautifully.

Remember that a faucet is not only a fashion statement, but an investment. Spending a little more now can save you greatly in the long run.

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Whatever its design, your aerator will contain a plastic or rubber washer, a disk perforated by tiny holes or a sawtooth edge, and one or more screens. A more complex model may also have a disposable adapter for internal and external spout threads, and air-intake holes in the outer shell.

Clean the screens with a small stiff brush; use the brush and a toothpick to clean out disk and intake holes. Replace badly worn or misshapen washers, and flush out all parts by holding them upside down in a full stream of water before reassembling the aerator.

On some models you can unscrew the tip of a spray nozzle by hand. More often it is secured by a Phillips screw and the screw may be concealed by a cover. Pop the cover out with a screwdriver of penknife, remove the retaining screw and disassemble the internal parts.

Clean or replace these parts as you would those of an aerator; before reassembling them, run water through the spray head at full force for a minute or two. Do not try to repair the mechanism inside the spray head. If defective, this sealed unit should be replaced by an identical model from the manufacturer.

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Your faucet uses simple valves that control the flow of water. There are multiple types of valves within your faucet that control water flow: compression, disk, ball, and cartridge to name a few of the more common valves. We’ll focus on the compression valve for today’s post. While repairing your faucet, locate and shut off the valves in the lines for both hot and cold water.

The first thing to know when repairing your dripping faucet is what kind of valve is inside. If you have the owner’s manual, you can find out the specific model and brand and all the information you need to get started. If not, simply take the faucet to your local home improvement store and get help finding the necessary parts.

Follow these steps to repair your dripping faucet:

1) Shut off the water supply.
2) Open the faucet’s handle to eliminate water pressure.
3) Remove the trim cap on the faucet with a small screwdriver.
4) Use a crescent wrench to remove the nut inside.
5) Carefully lift the spindle out of the faucet.
6) Remove the O-ring and replace it if necessary.
7) Look over the seat and replace it if it is damaged.
8) Install the valve.
9) Place the handle back on the faucet.
10) Test to make sure it’s working properly.
Follow these steps to replace your dripping faucet:
1) Shut off the water supply.
2) Open the faucet’s handle to eliminate water pressure.
3) Loosen the nuts located at the shutoff valves and base of the faucet itself.
4) Remove the supply tubes.
5) Carefully remove the locknuts that anchor the faucet to the sink.
6) Lift the faucet out.
7) If necessary, replace damaged spray hose and supply tubes.
8) Place the rubber gasket on the sink where your faucet will be set. If you don’t have a rubber gasket use plumber’s putty instead.
9) Set the faucet into position.
10) Attach the faucet locknuts (located under the sink) to fasten it firmly to your sink.
11) Hook the supply lines back up.
12) Test to make sure it’s working properly.

From bathroom-kitchen-faucets.com, you many learn more about:

• Kitchen faucet repair
• Shower faucets repair
• Bathtub faucet repair
• Bathroom sink faucet repair

We will provide more faucet repair tips for your dripping faucet repair.

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According to the Department of Energy, most households in the United States still use storage tank hot water heaters to meet their residential needs. However, both tank and tankless hot water systems exist. Both may be fueled by gas, oil, propane, electric or solar energy. Heat pump systems that use warm surrounding air to heat your water are also available. Tank systems hold hot water in a storage tank and keep it hot until you use it. Tankless “demand” systems heat water as it runs through your pipes, keeping energy costs down because water is heated only as it is needed.

The following table shows a comparison of the Energy Factor (EF) of Water Heaters*:

Finding the Right Match: Capacity and Efficiency

Match water heater capacity with your hot water requirements to save money and energy long term. Look at tank size, or capacity, and heating efficiency. Small water heaters are generally going to be the most efficient, so look for a tank size that holds just enough water to meet your needs during the peak times of the day. Larger tanks heat water that you don’t use, wasting both fuel and money.

The first consideration is thinking about how much hot water your household needs, especially during peak times of the day. If everyone takes a morning shower before school and work, you are going to need a water heater that can deliver that much water. The number of people in your household and the interval during which the water heater has to recover will determin the capacity. The First-Hour Rating (FHR) shown on the EnergyGuide label indicates the maximum amount of hot water the unit can deliver.

Once your know how much hot water you need, the next step is to find the most efficient heater. To compare water heater efficiency, compare the Energy Factor (EF) for different models. This rating takes into consideration the standby loss, as well as how efficiently heat is transferred from the energy source to the water. You’ll find the EF listed in the manufacturer’s product literature, or with an appliance manufacturer association. The EnergyGuide labels for each model also has energy efficiency ratings that provide helpful comparisons. Because insulation plays an important role in conserving heat loss, look for a tank with at least 1.5 inches of foam insulation.

Heat Pump Water Heaters

Heat pump water heaters operate by pulling in heat from the surrounding air to heat water. This transferrance of heat takes less energy than it does to heat the water through gas burners or electric coils. A heat pump water heater uses 1/2 to 1/3 the amount of energy that an electric water heater does. The drawbacks are the longer time it takes to heat the water and the more expensive initial cost of the heat pump compared with a conventional water heater. Still, because savings on monthly bills can be as much as 50%, it is a good option for some households.

Heat pumps use warm surrounding air to heat the water, so they require placement in a location that stays between 40-90 degrees Fahrenheit with at least 1000 cubic feet (28.3 cubic meters) of air space around the water heater. They do well in a furnace room, but won’t work in cold locations. They come as whole units, or can be purchased as an add-on to an existing water storage tank.

Solar Energy

Solar energy can also be used to heat water, and can meet half to almost all of your needs. Generally, solar systems have a collector and a storage tank, but the rest of the system design can vary greatly. Solar hot water systems can be passive, active and direct (open loop), or indirect (closed loop).

Passive systems are usually more reliable and easier to maintain because they don’t use pumps and controls. Active solar water heaters do use pumps and controls. Solar systems are sometimes used to preheat water for a conventional system, and in most cases where solar is predominantly used it is still backed up by a conventional water heater.

If you live in a really cold climate you will need to look at indirect solar systems, as direct systems cannot operate in freezing conditions.

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A water heater is the kind of home appliance most of us take for granted, but when you jump into the shower and are met with a blast of cold water, you know it’s time for hot water heater repair. This obviously isn’t a very pleasant experience, but it can be avoided if you are savvy with basic water heater maintenance. Let’s take a look at the anatomy of a water heater, how each part functions, and how they should be maintained and repaired.

The anatomy of a water heater: hot water supply line, gas vent and cold water input line.
A hot water heater is basically a storage tank that heats and then holds water. For a water tank to work, it needs a heat source (most commonly a gas fire but they can be electrically heated), a thermostat to regulate the temperature of the water, a cold water supply source and a hot water outlet to supply the home. It also has some other very necessary components. For safety, it has a vent for combustion gases, and a pressure relief valve (also known as a TPR valve, temperature pressure relief valve, or just relief valve), a safety device that releases pressure from the tank if either the internal temperature or pressure gets too high. For efficient operation, a hot water tank has an anode, a metal rod that prevents corrosion and helps eliminate smells from the water; a dip tube, which directs cold unheated water to the bottom of the tank; and a drain valve near the bottom of the tank so it can be emptied.

The repair work you can do on your hot water heater depends on how comfortable you are working with tools. At a minimum, any homeowner can drain and flush a water heater as well as test the TPR valve.

Water Heater Maintenance

Draining the water heater will help eliminate any build up of sediment inside the tank, and help keep the water smelling fresh. To drain the tank, first turn down the temperature and let the water in the tank cool for a couple of hours. Turn off the cold water supply, and attach one end of a hose to the bottom drain valve and run the hose to a drain or outside the house. Open a hot water faucet in the house to let air into the top of the tank, and then open the drain valve on the water tank. When all the water has drained from the tank, turn the cold water supply valve off and on a few times, essentially flushing any sediment out of the tank. When the water coming out the drain valve runs clear, disconnect the hose from the drain valve, close the valve and refill the tank. Don’t forget to turn off that faucet and turn the thermostat back up.

A water heater TPR valve.
Testing the TPR valve is simply a matter of manually raising or lowering its handle. The valve is usually attached on the top of the tank but some are on the side. Water should run out of the bottom of the tube and stop when the TPR valve is released.

Basic Hot Water Heater Repair

Problem: There’s no hot water.
Solution: Either the flame has gone out or the thermostat is not functioning.

•    Check to see if the pilot light is on. If it has gone out, it needs to be relit. This is something you can do yourself (follow the water heater manufacturer’s directions explicitly), or the gas supply company should relight the pilot for you.
•    Check the thermostat. Turn on a hot water tap and leave it running for a few minutes. The burner should light automatically as the thermostat recognizes the need to heat water. If it doesn’t, the thermostat is likely defective and will need to be replaced. This, unfortunately, is a job for a professional.

Problem: There’s not enough hot water.
Solution: The obvious first step is to check that your thermostat is set properly. If it is, have you flushed out the tank recently? A build up of deposits inside the tank could reduce its capacity, meaning you won’t have enough water for a long shower.

Another possibility is that the dip tube is broken. The dip tube is made of plastic and its job is to direct the incoming cold water to the bottom of the tank where it will be warmed before it mixes with the hot water already in the tank. If the dip tube has broken, incoming cold water may be mixing with the hot water in the upper part of the tank, lowering the overall water temperature. You can access the dip tube by removing the cold water supply plumbing and then gently lifting the dip tube out of the tank. Replacements are available.

Problem: The water is smelly.
Solution: The smell in your hot water likely comes from bacteria in the tank. Drain some water from the tank and then through the cold water input port. Add some hydrogen peroxide. Close up the system and then run some water from each tap and outlet (washing machine, dishwasher, etc.). The peroxide should kill the bacteria and eliminate the rotten eggs smell. Keeping the water temperature above 150 degrees should ensure no bacteria can grow, but if you have small children or elderly people in the home, this may not be a viable option due to the risk of scalding.

Performing water heater maintenance as suggested above will help keep your tank working. Basic hot water heater repair is also well within the skill of any homeowner. However, moving beyond basic maintenance and repair can put your plumbing skills to the test, as well as bring you into contact with combustible gas or electricity and water, possible dangerous combinations. If you feel uncomfortable with any aspects of hot water heater repair, don’t do it. Instead, contact a professional.

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PARIS, Jan. 5 (Xinhua) — France’s luxury faucet producer THG (the House of Tetard-Haudiquez-Grisoni) has planned to set up a subsidiary in Shanghai in 2010 and sign deals with China’s high-grade hotel chains and communities, local newspaper reported Tuesday.

The company said it hoped that opening up China’s market would help it tide over the negative impacts of the financial crisis.

THG, with 80 percent of its business abroad, has seen a 20 percent drop in turnover in 2009 after continuous growth in the previous two years. Turnover in the United States, the company’s largest overseas market, even shrank by 40 percent, the French daily Les Echos reported.

Statistics show that, while the company maintained steady business operation in the Middle East, orders of Olympic-related products from China has increased by 35 percent since 2007. The company now expects to further expand its market in China in 2010.

Established in 1950, THG is a family-owned enterprise and noted for providing luxury faucets and bath products for top-ranking hotels in France and customized services for the world’s wealth clients.

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If you’re not a plumber now, you will be one after this! You know the problem: the shower head leaks all the time, or the tub faucet is always dripping. Both are maddening. You must get behind the wall to fix this one. First, check the temperature of the water leaking from faucet or shower head. If It’s hot, then that is the valve body you must disassemble. If cold, then disassemble the cold. Finally: hang in there.

Ingredients
Can of penetrating oil Necessary washers (seat, “O” ring, bonnet)
Can of putty

Tools for Shower Faucet Repair
Medium flat blade screwdriver and/or Phillips head
Hammer
Adjustable wrench
Pliers
Set of socket wrenches
Small cold chisel
Penknife
Flashlight

Approximate Time: 60 Minutes
Two and Three Handle Bath Tub and Shower Faucet Repair Steps:
1. Shut off water supply either in the bathroom or at the main cutoff valve in the basement.
2. Turn faucet handle to “open” position and allow water to drain.
3. Remove faucet handle screw, turning counterclockwise. Sometimes screw is located beneath snap-on cover, and this cover must be pried off with screwdriver or knife.
4. Pull off handle. If handle is corroded and stuck to stem within, apply several drops of penetrating oil and allow to sit for a few minutes.
Then tap handle slightly with handle of hammer until it loosens. Do this gently!
5. Remove escutcheon, turning counterclockwise. If there is a set screw at the side or bottom of escutcheon, this will have to be loosened to allow removal of escutcheon.
6. Examine inside of escutcheon ring and scrape away old putty.
7. Remove stem sleeve by placing a cloth or rag over it, grasping it with pliers, and turning counterclockwise.
8. Remove bonnet or stem nut.
9. If bonnet is hexagonally shaped, select a socket wrench to fit and remove by turning counterclockwise.
10. If wrench will not fit around bonnet because of surrounding tile and plaster, it will be necessary to remove enough of the plaster to allow wrench to fit around bonnet. Use cold chisel and hammer.
11. If bonnet is not hexagonal but has two flat sides, try to fit either pliers or wrench around flat sides and turn out in counterclockwise direction.
12. Examine washer on the shoulder of bonnet. If worn, replace.
13. At the very bottom of bonnet, there is an “O” ring washer. Remove and examine. If worn, replace.
14. Place faucet handle onto valve stem and remove by turning either clockwise or counterclockwise as may be the case.
15. Unscrew screw at bottom of stem by turning counterclockwise.
16. Examine washer held in place by screw, and, if worn, replace.
17. If worm section of stem is worn, the entire stem should be replaced.
Note: When ordering new parts, it is advisable to take all old parts to the hardware store so you will get perfectly matched replacements.
18. Examine inside of valve body with flashlight. If valve seat is etched and worn, it may be necessary to regrind the seat. If valve seat is made of plastic, do not disturb.
19. After all steps have been completed and all new parts and washers have been replaced, reassemble entire valve body, as shown in the Figure. Tighten parts by turning in the opposite direction as when you disassembled the unit. Make sure all fittings are tight and snug, but do not over tighten, as this will damage valve body.
20. Fill escutcheon ring with putty and fit over valve stem and stem sleeve. Then press escutcheon ring against wall until putty oozes out from the edges. This will prevent leakage from tub into walls.
21. Reset escutcheon in place.
22. Clean away putty from tiles.
23. Place valve handle on valve stem and screw into position.
24. Turn on water supply and test for leakage.

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At the same time paper can result in irritation as well as infection including hemorrhoids that can lead to bladder and urinary tract infections. Such infections can spread quite easily. Yet less than 30% of people wash hands after using the toilet. In result they invite risks of infection quite easily. Thus dispensing the use of hands in toilet could be one of the best protections against the chances of such infections.

We at bathroom-kitchen-faucets.com help you in your objectives by providing with bidet attachment as well as toilet seat that would enable you to use your toilet perfectly without using the hands directly. This will not only decrease the chances of germs from urine or the feces multiplying and causing health hazards for you.

If you have doubts about our being so confident about the results you get using our toilet bidet then having a look at the advantages would be eye openers. Our efficient and quality bidet set offers continuous warm water streams, and it connects directly with the fresh water line with dual nozzles. Neither electricity nor battery would be required. Since the nozzles are self cleaning with built in cold water by pass, adjustable pressure as well as temperature control provides very simple yet practical solutions to your problems. Despite continuous exposure to moisture, the stainless structure will not get stained.

With the constant endeavor of providing the best devices for our valued customers, we at bathroom-kitchen-faucets.com have added various new features to our products. You may also be interested in learning about the features of our popular products. For details you can visit the product details page on our website at bathroom-kitchen-faucets.com.

Usually low mounted plumbing fixtures or the type of the sinks that are meant for washing the genitalia, anus, and the inner buttocks of the user, toilet bidet was originally a French invention of the 17th century. In those days they were meant for the bedrooms and moved to the bathrooms only in the 19th century. A bidet today has multiple uses. They can not only be used for baby bath and can also be used by the couples as preparation before sex as well as for rinsing purposes afterwards.

Users that are not familiar with bidets can get into confusion about them and may not be able to differentiate between urinal, toilet, or drinking fountains. Normally it is expected that user sitting on the toilet bidet would sit facing the tap and the nozzle for washing the genitalia and sit with back to the tap and wall when requiring the cleaning of anus and buttocks for a thorough cleansing.

With our quality products that are combination of bidets and toilets or with our bidet attachment you will not be facing the problems of adjusting yourself to the bidets. In fact the bidets will provide automatic adjustment for you.

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Fixing a Shower Rail Slider Bar Bracket
Each Shower Rail Slider Bar Bracket has a screw, you need remove the handheld showerhead from the shower holder to find the fixing screw, use a cross screw-driver to tighten it.

Shower Rail Slider Bar Bracket replacement
If the shower bracket is out of usage, you need buy a new shower holder to replace the old one from your shower rail slider bar. Please note that you need to know the the diameter of your Shower Rail Slider Bar before buying a new one.

New styles of Shower Rail Slider Bar Bracket recommended

Model No. A2401

Stylish Shower Rail Slider Bar Bracket in Chrome for subsequent mounting on riser. China Sanliv Hand Shower Holder fits most of Shower Rail Sliders.

Modern shower head holder is designed for shower systems, simplely fix this hand shower holder on the showerpipe, adjustable height, for use of a luxury rain shower systoms.

Find shower head holder, massage hand shower, shower rail, 1/2″ Water outlet, shower faucet for your bathroom from Sanliv online catalog.

Model No. A2402

Hand Shower Holder in Chrome for subsequent mounting on riser. Hand Shower Holder in coordinating finishes complete the relaxing shower.

Brass Shower Rail Slider Bar Bracket is designed for heavy duty shower systems, simplely fix this hand shower holder on the showerpipe, adjustable height, for use of a luxury rain shower.

Find rainshower showerhead, massage hand shower, shower rail, 1/2″ Water outlet, shower faucet for your bathroom.

Want to replace your old Hand Held Shower Slide Bar?

Sanliv heavy duty shower slide rails are solid brass construction. Much heavier than almost any slide rail currently being sold by any other company. 2 styles to choose from. Order with or without a hand held shower head. (Any handshower set with a standard conical hose will work with the brass slide rail.) Easily adjust the height of your handshower up or down.

You’ll love the elegant, yet simple design of these brass slide rails. Choose the style you like best. (In the photo below, the HS-1001 is pictured on the left and the HS-1002 is on the right.) Both styles are available in chrome, satin, brushed nickel and polished brass finishes. Click here to learn more about the different finishes available. Click here for installation instructions.

The slide rails are very high quality but some of them may have slight cosmetic flaws and are priced so low because of these minor blemishes. Most flaws are not even noticeable after installed.

Where Can I order?

Find a classic collection of SHOWER SLIDING BARS of your own choice at http://www.sanliv.com/faucets/shower-slide-bar.

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And now with the new Temperature Controlled Red LED Faucet Light, when the temperature reaches 89 degrees the light source will magically transform from Blue to Red.

Now what does the new and improved Faucet Light really do for me?

Well, think of the new Red LED Faucet Light as a good warning sign for you or possibly your children. Once the water becomes too warm (over 89 Degrees), the Red Faucet Light will be the latest beacon of child safety in your house.

Plus, like always, the color changing LED Faucet Light looks so cool!

You can also use the Faucet Light as an additional light source for doing sexy dishes or adding some pizzazz to the bathroom. The Faucet Light will impress all your family and friends. It’s a must have piece of unique home decor

LED Faucet Light Features:

This sleekly designed single lever LED faucet is best suited for use over a bathroom sink. The chrome and glass style is the perfect addition to top off a minimalistic bathroom design.

Leak Resistant: All our faucets have passed repeated quality testing to ensure that leaks do not occur, even at high pressures up to 1.6Mpa.

Heat Resistant: Our high quality ceramic valves are made to exceed all applicable industry standards, and are extraordinarily heat resistant.

LED Lights: The embedded LED lights change color according to water temperature, offering a fun visual. The light only works when the faucet is open, and is powered by four AA batteries (not included.)
•    0~30℃ Blue;
•    30~40℃ Green;
•    41~50℃ Red;
•    50~100℃ Red (Flashing).

Long Lifespan: The faucets were designed for long term use, and the service life of our valves are above the industry standard, able to withstand over 600,000 uses.

Fine Finish: A well chrome-plated faucet looks dignified and with a little verdant color. Our faucets have been proved to meet high requirement of United States and European chrome-plating standard.

Easy Installation: All our faucets are designed to be easy to install. Simply follow the instructions listed below for how to assemble the parts.

Now available in a temperature sensitive display version! Your totally customized LED Faucet Lights not only delivers a ton of information, impact and WOW. It’s a promotional item that people love to show off. And a guaranteed hit any any trade show, PLUS a LED Faucet Lights makes an ideal marketing tool for kids!

Changing LED Light Colors Showerhead – No batteries required!

o If you hate waiting for water to heat up before you get in the shower, you’ll love an LED light showerhead.
o Showerhead changes colors according to water temperature.
o LED light colors on showerhead indicate the water temperature so you can know before you get in the shower
o Green light indicates a temperature of 90 degrees Fahrenheit
o Blue light indicates a temperature of 91-105 degrees Fahrenheit
o Red light indicates a temperature of 108-111 degrees Fahrenheit
o Showerhead is powered by the water that runs though it
o Made of chrome-plated resin
o Will fit most hand-held showerheads
o Features a 3/4-inch screw to fit most standard shower hoses.

Smile Sanliv, Your satisfaction.

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